An introduction to Japanese makeup brushes: Wayne Goss ...
An introduction to Japanese makeup brushes: Wayne Goss ...
I think Ive developed a new obsession for Japanese makeup brushes!
My love for makeup brushes is not new. I believe that the day I understood the importance of using the right tools to apply my makeup, something clicked, and my make-up has never been the same since then! smile
Link to Green Brush
Until recently, I used all sorts of brushes: with natural and synthetic hair, at all types of prices, without actually making any difference between them. And then, by listening to some of my favorite YouTubers (Lisa Eldridge, Stefanie Nicole, Karima McKimmie to name a few) talk about Japanese makeup brushes, I started to do some research to understand what the deal was with these brushes.
And I discovered a real world of makeup brushes enthusiasts (it was actually pretty exciting)! I have the feeling that when you start using these types of brushes, its quite difficult to go back to conventional makeup brushes So I decided to invest (yes thats the right word! But their price can be justified, I assure you) in a face brush to start with.
I wanted the star of Japanese brushes, the one that is acclaimed by all the Japanese makeup brushes worshipers (and even by a lot of beauty addicts in general!), I name the famous Suqqu Cheek Brush. This brush is supposed to be the softest brush on Earth. Many make-up artists (including Lisa Eldrige) swear by it and its very practical because it can be used with many different products. Unfortunately, its also very difficult to find, often out of stock and its price is quite prohibitive, especially for a first brush: depending on merchants, it retails for $130 to $150.
So I went on a hunt for an acceptable dupe, and when I was doing my research, two names were often coming back: Wayne Goss The Air-Brush and the Chikuhodo Z4 brush for blush/ highlight.
As far as I understood, they are not exact dupes of the Suqqu brush, but theyre supposed to be quite similar regarding the softness of their (natural) hair, their excellent quality but also the fact that theyre multi-tasking. These are not necessarily cheaper alternatives, theyre still quite expensive (especially the Chikuhodo). But as I said above, the price of Japanese makeup brushes can be explained in several ways.
Japanese makeup brushes: what makes them so special?
Theyre handcrafted:
They arent mass-production brushes, as most of those found in professional makeup brands. Theyre in fact man-made, by highly skilled experts. In this case, you can even refer to it as craftsmanship.
Most of the Japanese makeup brushes are made in the city of Kumano, in the Hiroshima region in Japan. Kumano is the most famous city in Japan for the quality of its brushes for more than 200 years. The city also has its brush museum (Fude-no-sato Kobo Brush Museum) and every year in Autumn, you can even attend the Kumano Fude Matsuri Festival, which exists since and during which the city celebrates the precious brushes with all kinds of activities: a ceremony of ritual cremation of used brushes, some calligraphy lessons, demonstrations and of course, a huge market where you can do your annual brush shopping! smile
Kumano owns 80% of the Japanese brushes production (those dedicated to drawing and those for cosmetic use): about a hundred specialized companies that manufacture in their name or for other brands.
Some of them are very famous like Hakuhodo (which also manufactures the Wayne Goss brushes and the Tom Ford ones), Chikuhodo (which also manufactures Suqqu brushes), or Mizuho (the company shown in the video below).
Their softness is second to none:
Ill be honest, these are by far the softest brushes I own! And this softness doesnt happen by accident. Many of the Japanese brushes are made with natural hair, and they are rigorously selected by Japanese brush makers.
Indeed, Kumano craftsmen and women work according to a very specific technique to retain only the best hairs and to exclude those which dont have the quality required to make good brushes (cross, curved, damaged hairs or which have lost their tip). The secret of these brushes softness lies in the hairs tip. Its the used part of the hair, which is thinner but also softer to the touch.
For most other makeup brushes brands, the process of making brushes is very different. Usually, the manufacturers gather the hairs in a bouquet and then laser cut them to obtain a precise shape with same length bristles. But this technique doesnt preserve the softest part of the hair, and the tip is lost. The Kumano craftsmen and women really focus on this hair tip, because its the Japanese makeup brushes treasure. Rather than laser cutting the hairs, they will use a special mold to give the shape they want to the brush.
As you can imagine, this kind of process is obviously longer and requires very skilled workers. This explains why the production capacity is more modest and also the price difference with mass production makeup brushes manufactured.
Theyre very technical:
Japanese brushes use all kinds of hair: natural hair, of course, but also synthetic and sometimes a mixture of both.
In the natural hairs used, you have some goat, horse, water badger, squirrel, weasel hairs
And for each type of hair you have a very specific use!
Indeed, for each type of application (face, eyes) and texture of products (liquid, cream, powder), you can select your brush according to your skin type (oily/ dry/ sensitive) and the result you want to achieve (natural or more dramatic).
For a more technical explanation, the natural hairs dont have a smooth surface, they have scales (think about the human hair scales you heard about all the time in the shampoo ads, its the same). And these scales are great to pick makeup pigments up. Obviously, depending on the animal species, each hair has a different structure and a different use.
For example, dry and/ or sensitive skin will prefer squirrel hair brushes, for a super soft application and a more diffuse and natural result theses brushes are also perfect for very pigmented products). For oily skin, goat hair is the best.
Many Japanese brands explain on their website which brushes to use according to your skin type, the desired effect and/ or the texture of the products used.
Some are real collector items:
For some brands, the hairs are not the only precious part in the brushes.
Indeed, the handle can be made with a very luxurious material like precious wood and encrusted with stones, etc. And the ferrule (the metal part that encloses the hair and attaches it to the handle) can also be made of gold, for example. Of course, this type of brush doesnt represent the majority of Japanese brushes, but its a small part of this craft that delights wealthy collectors! smile
But, also:
They may be more expensive (not always):
Certain natural hair Japanese brushes are more expensive than conventional makeup brushes, but of course, it all depends on which brand youre talking about!
If you take the example of brushes like Real Techniques or Zoeva, the price of Japanese brushes is obviously much higher. But if you compare to professional makeup brands like MAC or Make Up For Ever, the prices are not that different and sometimes even pricier then their Japanese equivalents
For example, the famous 217 MAC eyeshadow blending brush retails for $25. Its equivalent in the brand Hakuhodo (the JBkSL) retails for $19. And I think its safe to say that the quality of the Hakuhodo brush is probably far superior!
They are not easy to find:
Unless you live in Japan, there arent a lot of shops that sell these brushes in Europe or the US. In Dubai, to the best of my knowledge, there are none. In the UK, you can find some Japanese makeup brands in Selfridges, in London (they distribute Suqqu). But in general, if you want to buy Japanese brushes, you have to place an order online, and the large number of brushes present on these shops can be super overwhelming!
I would strongly advise you to do a lot of research before you order your first Japanese makeup brush. There are quite a few specialized blogs where you can find great info:
the Sweet Makeup Temptations blog is almost an encyclopedia of the Japanese brush,
Karima from the blog Shameless Fripperies also made quite a few very useful posts on the topic.
You need to take care of them, theyre fragile:
I speak mainly of natural hair, especially for those which are in delicate hairs like squirrel for example. They should not be washed with water too often, once a month max. This could be excellent news (cleaning the makeup brushes is a core, isnt it?) but with my skin type (acne prone oily skin), the hygiene of the brushes is a concern.
Since theyre natural hairs, it is a lot easier for them to be exposed to bacterial contamination, than a synthetic bristle brush. Alcohol-based decontaminants should also be avoided because they can ultimately damage them. So I ordered a special soft spray that will allow me to disinfect them between two washes with water.
When you wash them, you should also be careful not to leave them in the water for too long, and its better to use a soft product, like baby shampoo. The drying process is also important if you want to keep their original shape. Brush-guards are a must-have!
In short, a good wash can really make a big difference in the longevity of the brushes. Theyre fragile tools that require a special maintenance, but if you take good care of them, they can last you for years and years!
If youre a fervent animal cause defender, I dont think these brushes are for you:
Touchy subject, I even want to say taboo. It was very complicated to collect information about it!
Even if the animals are not killed specifically to use their hairs to make brushes with them, their hair did not fall off, all on its own, lets face it. The story of the Chinese farmer who brushes the squirrels to recover their hairs is only a legend! I would like to believe it, but I have to face the truth.
Most Japanese brush companies use hair from animals used in the European or Chinese food industry. These may also come from exterminated animals for health reasons (for example, in many countries squirrels are treated in the same way as rats). And finally, there are also animals used for the leather industry.
The natural bristles of Japanese brushes are therefore a by-product of these industries. So even if no animal hasnt been killed or harmed for the sole purpose of making makeup brushes, its hard to understand how some can qualify natural hair brushes as being cruelty-free, like Wayne Goss does I guess it depends on the definition you have of the word cruelty-free.
If you have more info on the topic, feel free to leave a comment, I would love to discuss it! smile
My first face Japanese brushes:
Wayne Goss The Air-Brush:
Wayne Goss is a renowned British makeup artist on YouTube. Im not particularly fond of his reviews (often very short and a little bit too sponsored for my taste) but on the other hand, I really like his makeup techniques videos. Theyre very informative and educational.
Wayne Goss created his brand of makeup brushes a few years ago. His brushes are made in Japan, in Kumano, by the famous brush company Hakuhodo.
These brushes have the same quality as very good Japanese brushes, without their price. They are not cheap, of course, but theyre a little cheaper than regular Hakuhodo or Chikuhodo brushes, for example.
Also, theyre quite easy to find online (in the Beautylish website, which delivers worldwide) and Wayne Goss does demos on their use in dedicated videos, which is quite handy! smile
The Air-Brush brush is supposed to be a super-soft multi-purpose brush. It is made of squirrel hair; these are the softest of natural hair. Squirrel hair is ideal for a very sensitive skin because they wont irritate it and they are great to apply powdered products.
Its quite small, its shape is slightly tapered, and its a flat brush.
Personally, I use it to apply loose powder under my eyes to fix my concealer, but also to apply my highlighter. If I was doing contouring, it would also be perfect for that, especially if I wanted to get a very natural and diffuse effect.
I tried it to apply powder on all my face, and it works perfectly, but its a bit long (its tiny lol). Its also great for applying blush. In short, it can do everything!!!
Wayne Goss demonstrates all the techniques that can be used with this brush, the famous buffing technique which he often talks about in his videos (I didnt try because its a little bit too advanced for me lol).
The main advantage of this brush is its incredible softness, but its also perfect to apply powders over other products without disturbing them, which is really what you want with a good powder brush.
It also picks particularly well the pigments and the magic of the natural hair, its also very easy to clean between 2 products. Simply wipe it gently with a microfiber cloth or even a paper towel and the pigments come off very easily. Its super convenient if you dont want to use several brushes to do your makeup!
The Air-Brush is supposed to be a limited edition, but it comes back regularly on Beautylish. At the moment, its out of stock, but you can register on the website to be notified when it returns.
It retails for $35, which is much cheaper than its equivalents at Hakuhodo or Chikuhodo to name the best-known brands.
For more makeup pencil brushinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.
Chikuhodo Z4 Blush/Highlight Brush:
Chikuhodo is a renowned Japanese brush manufacturer from Kumano. They manufacture brushes in their name but also for other brands (among the most well known: Suqqu and RMK).
The company was founded 40 years ago by a renowned Japanese brush designer, Tesshu Chikuhodo. You can see him in videos like this one talking about his art. I admit that this is the kind of thing that totally fascinates me! Knowing that every Chikuhodo brush is made by hand, by someone who has mastered this art to perfection (the brushes are made by Chikuhodo employees trained by the master himself), it just makes me so proud to buy their products, because its a very old knowledge which must be passed on! I have something with this kind of stuff, Ive always been fascinated by this type of craft. The fact of having in my family a great grandmother seamstress, a stylist aunt and a grandfather furrier may perhaps explain this fascination ah ah ah! bigsmile
The Z range is the most renowned of the brand. All brushes in this range are in squirrel hair. The Z4 has a round, flat shape, and its fluffier than the Wayne Goss one.
The Z4 is mainly intended for powders application, especially blushes, and highlighters. It also works great with loose or pressed powder face and bronzers.
I love it to apply my powder all over the face (even if its a little small) but especially, I love it to apply blush! Even a dark and super pigmented blush will apply and blend perfectly with this brush. Its awesome!
Its funny because its quite small and until very recently I thought Id prefer bigger brushes But that was before Chikuhodo lol!
Like Wayne Goss brush, it picks pigments perfectly from powders, and its easy to clean between two applications of products.
The Chikuhodos Z4 brush is available on the Beautylish website for $73.
Is Wayne Goss The Air-Brush a dupe for the Chikuhodo Z4?
Wayne Gosss The Air-Brush brush is often cited as a dupe for the Chikuhodos Z4 brush (and also for the Suqqus famous Cheek Brush) (which I dont have) (yet lol).
Personally, I find them quite different. They are both with squirrel hairs and super soft; they apply very well the most pigmented powders products that they blend perfectly.
But their shape is not exactly the same, even though they are both small brushes. The Wayne Goss brush is more precise, flatter and has less hair. The Chikuhodo Z4 is fluffier, a little denser and its shape is rounder.
As I explained above, although technically these are both two multi-task brushes, I use them to apply different products.
So I find that both have their place in my collection! smile
In conclusion:
After I discover Wayne Goss brush and that of Chikuhodo, I was very tempted to throw away my complete makeup brushes collection to replace them with their Japanese equivalents. But finally, I think its good to have diversity in your collection. (My banker is very relieved of this decision) Well, at first, anyway! (My banker just had an attack) (lol)
For the face especially, and with my oily acne prone skin, I dont think that the Japanese brushes are the best option from a hygienic point of view. Well, unless you have a large collection of brushes so you can often rotate (my banker is in a coma at this point) (he he he)
The fact of not being able to wash my brushes once a week is an issue, I have to say So, although I want to use my 2 Japanese brushes all the time, (they are great with so many different products, the dream blushes!), I alternate with my other conventional brushes to avoid cleaning them too often.
But clearly, although it will probably take me time, I intend to start a collection of Japanese brushes and eventually, have a few more choices! I already ordered a few eye brushes on Beautylish, and I cant wait to try them! I will, of course, do a review once I have tested them enough! smile
And you, did you try Japanese makeup brushes? Which one are your must-haves? (Any recommendations? Just asking for a friend. :P)
Photo credit: bonnie-garner.com
Intro to Japanese Makeup Brushes + Koyudo Brush Review |
With regard to premium hand crafted and luxury makeup brushes, there is no denying that Japan is the mecca and Japanese brushes are truly the best of the best. As a makeup enthusiast, I have personally heard of many great things about Japanese makeup brushes, but have not had the chance to try them first hand. Why? Well, thats mostly because Japanese brushes dont really go for cheap and every time I do muster up the will (and funds) to try them, I eventually end up changing my mind and thinking of the many other makeup products I can buy if I skipped on these.
Fast forward to the present, I was fortunate to be given another opportunity to work with the team behind the Japanese beauty site, Datumou Recipe. And I say another opportunity because they have previously tapped me to create a Japanese-inspired everyday makeup look for them, which you can read here.
This time around is much more special because it came with gifts!! They, together with their partner, Koyudo (a brand of Japanese makeup brushes) and Fude Beauty (an online Japanese makeup brush store) were kind enough to gift me with $200 worth of brushes to use and review. Of course, it goes to say that all thoughts and opinions expressed herein are my own and are in no way influenced by any of the companies mentioned. Now that weve clarified that up, on to the brushes and the review!
Datumou Recipe asked me to choose which Koyudo brushes Id like to try from the website www.fudebeauty.com (fude stands for brushes). It was my first time hearing about this website, but the moment I laid my eyes on their landing page, I was instantly filled with joy!
FINALLY! There is a store from which international buyers can easily buy Japanese makeup brushes. Before FUDE Beauty, it was definitely a challenge to source Japanese brushes mainly because (1) buyers feel overwhelmed with the many choices as well as the cramped and overcrowded Japanese e-commerce sites, (2) there are not much English resources/sites and (3) no international shipping options. All of these are solved by Fude Beauty. The site is very easy on the eyes, there are English descriptions for all their products, and last but not the least, it offers FREE international shipping with a minimum purchase amount. So, if ever you are looking to try out or add more Japanese brushes to your collection, you know where to get them. Youre welcome!
I was able to get 7 brushes with the budget given all of which youll know and read about in a bit. While waiting for the brushes to arrive, I, out of curiosity, looked up Japanese brushes online, because even though I was previously itching to try them out, I havent really done any thorough research on them. Youll probably be able to read the same things on the Internet but let me just quickly share the few bits of information that struck me and got my interest.
Why are Japanese Brushes Expensive?
- Its a whole science Manufacturing Japanese makeup brushes is a craft in Kumano, a region in Hiroshima prefecture. They are produced by Japanese artisans with a long history of expertise in crafting handmade calligraphy tools. In fact, training to be a Japanese makeup brush artisan can last up to 10 years.
- Skillfully handmade with refined techniques Japanese makeup brushes require around 30 steps to create, and most of these steps are still done by hand. Each brush is carefully combed and shaped making sure there are no stray or crooked hair. Brush artisans are also very particular when they pick out the kind of hair to use.
- Carefully sourced high-grade materials Materials play a vital role in the finishing product, so artisans work hard to look for superb quality materials to craft the best Japanese makeup brushes.
To summarize, yes, Japanese brushes, when compared to other alternatives, can definitely be the more luxurious and costly choice, but when singled out, you will realize that price simply equates to quality and given what we already know about Japanese brushes, I swear you are getting every bit of your moneys worth with these.
What Makes Them Stand Out Versus Other Brushes?
- Originates from calligraphy brushes Japanese makeup brushes root from calligraphy brushes, so the tip of the bristle always played a vital role in its quality. In calligraphy, bristles vary depending on the desired thickness of the stroke, on how much ink would be deposited, on the kind of paper, etc.
- Natural hair bristles Japanese makeup brushes use natural animal hair such as goat, squirrel, and horse, which makes them extremely soft to the touch. Each hair type has a specific feature and is used for a specific brush type. Therefore, it would be best to choose your brush based on the type of application (face, eyes), product texture (liquid, cream, powder) and skin type. This improves overall performance and allows you to maximize the use of your brushes. Moreover, unlike the tips of synthetic brushes which are cut by machine, the natural cuticles of the hair used in Japanese makeup brushes are kept intact. The natural animal fibers tend to hold powder and color pigment better for a more even application.
My First Set of Japanese Makeup Brushes
Koyudo is one of the leading Japanese makeup brushes manufacturers located in Kumano and has been established in . The company has 80 employees, 70 of which are artisans, spread among their office and two factories. The first Kanji character in its name, (Ko), suggests that it aims to be a company that shines like the sun. Its main philosophy is To keep on changing to stay the same, which is pretty prevalent in Koyudos products. Theirs is the only brand Ive seen with such creative, colorful and fun designs but at its heart, stays true to the craftmanship behind Japanese makeup brushes.
As I was given the freedom to choose a set of brushes, I made sure that I made it a comprehensive collection meaning there is a brush for each usage and that I am able to have a variety of hair types.
The Brushes I Selected
Foundation Brushes
As a personal preference, I like a cream or liquid base and seldom use powder foundation; hence, choosing to get two foundation (base) brushes. I got a FU-PA09-P which is made of a mix of natural goat and synthetic hair and a FU-PA08-P which basically has the same shape, only smaller and made with only natural goat hair.
Whenever I do my makeup, I try to apply a full face of cream/liquid makeup products and then set them with a layer of powder products, I find that doing this makes my makeup look more natural and last longer. My experience using these brushes is phenomenal! Both are densely-packed, super soft and feel so luxurious. I liked using the former to buff and blend in my liquid foundation as well as other cream products like contour, blush and highlight. However, because it is highly-dense, the FU-PA08-P is not the best brush to use in dusting loose powder to set, but it rocked my world as a contour brush! It has the perfect shape and size to sculpt cheekbones as well as draw shadows along the sides of my nose. The short handles of both brushes also give me a lot of control, therefore more precision, in my makeup application.
Blush, Highlighter, Countour
Made of the highest quality goat hair, Saikoho Goat, the Saikoho blush brush is the softest brush of the bunch. It actually says on the website that this is great for contouring as well, but I have instantly fallen in love with the FU-PA08-P to even give this a try (but will definitely do it soon) so I have only used this to apply my powder blush and highlight. It picks just the right amount of product and feels extremely comfortable to pat blush onto my cheeks and swipe on highlighter at the top of my cheekbones. I also didnt have any trouble blending in the products with this brush. Heaven!
Powder and Blush
Koyudo really went cute with this brush, not only do the two peaks resemble a heart, but they also made it pink! Omg, my heart is melting! Having two peaks is quite unusual for makeup brushes, but if its this pretty, I am not complaining!
I know Im supposed to use both peaks with the same product, but I am pretty sure this wouldnt perform any differently compared to the Saikoho blush brush above. So, to make things more interesting and exciting, I experimented on this brush a little and picked up powder blush on one peak and a powder bronzer on the other. IT. WAS. MAGICAL. Both powders applied evenly and blended so nicely together. I was able to complete two steps in one. How amazing is that!?!
Eyeshadow Brushes
For eyeshadow brushes, I got three kinds, one basic which is a flat brush to deposit color shapes that I havent seen from other brands BP037 which has an almond shape and is made of 100% gray squirrel hair and a Saikoho eyeshadow brush that looks more like a pencil brush.
Eyeshadow application, most especially on monolids like me, can be really tricky so what better brushes can make the whole process a dream if not for Japanese ones, right?! OH YES!
The flat brush was lovely to use it picked up the right amount of eyeshadow and deposited a good and even amount of pigment in just a light pat on the lids, and building on layers of the same shadow was super easy to do.
Built to provide definition on small eyes, I used the BP037 to define my crease. I covered the whole brush with product by rolling the sides onto the pan and dipping the tip a couple of times. I placed the tip on the outer corner of my eye because this is where I want the color to be concentrated, and then slowly run the brush through my crease, gradually decreasing pressure as I got closer to my inner corner, and what can I tell you it works so well, I got my crease defined in no time! This definitely cut my eyeshadow time in half.
Last but not the least is the Saikoho eyeshadow brush. I havent used any brush quite like this before the moment it picked up color and helped me to deposit eyeshadow on my lower lashline, near my waterline, I was instantly taken aback! This is the dreamiest pencil brush for small eyes! The tip is the perfect small needed to deliver precision, and it is soft enough to allow work on sensitive areas of the eye. The rest of the brush is hard to support and provide control. Theres really nothing quite like it. Swear!
The website also suggests to use it to smudge eyeliners and create a smokey effect along your top lashline which I will definitely do next time!
Overall, I had a wonderful experience working with these brushes. All of them feel luxurious and excellently made there isnt anything that feels loose or clunky, everythings super compact and durable. These are also the softest brushes Ive used in my entire life and now, I can understand why they come with hefty prices.
The only cons to these are (1) you really have to be careful when handling these during wash proper washing makes them last years but theyre super fragile that any wrong move can immediately damage them; and (2) since theyre made of natural hair, they are not the best tools for cream/liquid products and are only ideal for use with powder products. Nevertheless, I do think these are worth the investment because just like any other Japanese product, you can feel the artistry that takes in making them. One can definitely expect nothing but the greatest quality and top-notch performance with these.
If youre thinking of investing in your own Japanese makeup brushes, a tip would be to know your skin type as the type of hair youd want to get highlight depends on that do you have oily skin? Then go for brushes with goat hair as these are the most durable and therefore, can withstand regular washing and have less dirt to clog your pores. Or do you have dry skin? Blue squirrel is much more delicate and would be perfect for dry skin as it produces less oil and will require the brush to be cleaned less frequently.
Writers Bio
Jelaine owns 68 lipstick tubes (and counting) and thinks that eyebrows are life. It might be an understatement to say but she is a little very much obsessed with makeup.
This love brought her to one of the most fashionable, dynamic and beauty-loving cities in the world Tokyo, where she stayed for three years (until ). After taking up a Masters in Business Administration from Globis University, she worked for a financial company, and at the same time, explored and scoured through drugstores, Donkis and department stores for the latest J-Beauty products.
Currently a professional makeup artist based in Manila, if Jelaine is not on shoots or on her makeup gigs, she manages her own makeup line (@hey.sundays on Instagram) and likes to share her love for beauty through her social media accounts (@jelaineeey / @afterglowbyjelaine on Instagram), blog (https://chuajelaine.wixsite.com/j-beautystop) and YouTube channel (http://bit.ly/JeChuaYT).
Are you interested in learning more about bamboo makeup brushes? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!