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Collet Chuck Source

Sep. 02, 2024

Collet Chuck Source

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Originally Posted by Geoff Whaling

Originally Posted by


MT2 collets or accessories using MT2 spindles can be used in either head stock (turning or machining) or tail stock (drilling)

I can't stress enough the danger of using a MT2 collet body, Jacobs Chuck, or MT2 collet fitted directly into the head or tail stock MT2 without a drawbar. Certain spindle cuts, particularly RHS cove cuts & RHS pommel type cuts with a skew, will draw a MT2 taper out of the head stock spindle. The same goes for drilling operations in the tailstock with MT2 collets, MT2 Jacobs chucks etc when withdrawing the drill bit, particularly large forstner style bits. MT2 accessories when used without "tail stock support" MUST be used with a draw bar! This includes buffing wheels, sanding accessories as well. I know we get away with it all the time - but it is unsafe!

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Collet Better Than Chuck?? - Airguns & Guns Forum

Not

a good idea if your mill is in generally good shape and you value your tooling; in a fab shop where the grinding grit from the weld department drifts over to settle on everything shortcuts are more acceptable in the interest of productivity (of course, when the shop foreman leaves the one and only good drill chuck locked in his personal toolbox, you don't have much choice  ). Bolt-on top jaws bored for the job are an excellent way to guarantee concentricity and length, parallelism if the part is short, with the only drawback of requiring a set being modified for each specific purpose and trued upon each mounting to the chuck. If I were to buy a lathe; I would want a good 3-jaw with bolt-on top jaws, giving the ability to bore up soft jaws when required; and a good 4-jaw to handle everything else. Ronno, I do not know what you are turning; but if all machining op's required can be completed from one side prior to cut-off, with no need to re-chuck with any reference to completed geometry, and your chuck is not so far off that you cannot clean up the stock (unlikely), you are good to go as-is. Just some observations that I have made, take them for what they're worth. (not much, LOL)
Jesse

I'm not much of a machinist, have only 2 years in a fab shop toolroom under my belt. From what I've gathered in various old e-book editions of machinist/engineering handbooks; classically the 3-jaw is for general semi-precision (.001" and over tolerances, generally); the 4-jaw for dead-nuts high precision work (if you are working with the same piece of bar, after initially obtaining center; open the chuck with the same 2 jaws each time. You will be fairly close to center on repeated clampings thus having less final adjusting); and of course off-center/unusually shaped parts. Collets are somewhat tricky, quality is everything. On high-class machinery, with quick-acting collet closers; they are a precision production workholding method (with appropriate stock! HRS will not benefit from a collet!) On the tired old scarred-up Bridgeport that I mostly worked on, we routinely held drill bits directly in the R-8 collets deviating + or - up to .007" from the marked collet size.a good idea if your mill is in generally good shape and you value your tooling; in a fab shop where the grinding grit from the weld department drifts over to settle on everything shortcuts are more acceptable in the interest of productivity (of course, when the shop foreman leaves the one and only good drill chuck locked in his personal toolbox, you don't have much choice). Bolt-on top jaws bored for the job are an excellent way to guarantee concentricity and length, parallelism if the part is short, with the only drawback of requiring a set being modified for each specific purpose and trued upon each mounting to the chuck. If I were to buy a lathe; I would want a good 3-jaw with bolt-on top jaws, giving the ability to bore up soft jaws when required; and a good 4-jaw to handle everything else. Ronno, I do not know what you are turning; but if all machining op's required can be completed from one side prior to cut-off, with no need to re-chuck with any reference to completed geometry, and your chuck is not so far off that you cannot clean up the stock (unlikely), you are good to go as-is. Just some observations that I have made, take them for what they're worth. (not much, LOL)Jesse

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