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Post by Harold_V » Tue Oct 02, 3:15 am

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bsmith wrote:My question is can a standard 7" AO wheel with 1 1/4" center hole but without the four surrounding screw holes be safely mounted to this type of carbide grinder shaft with just the M18 shaft nut and maybe a large washer between the nut and the wheel? Instead of using a large washer behind the shaft nut, maybe a special flange could be made?

It's difficult to understand exactly how the grinder is set up by the exploded view, but it's obvious that there are adapters in place. You should be able to remove the adapter for mounting a plate mounted wheel and replace it with a machined adapter that will accommodate 1¼" bore grinding wheels. You may have to get creative, but it certainly is possible.

There's nothing wrong with your plan (except as outlined below). The grinder is limited, according to published specs, to 3,400 RPM. The average 7" wheel will tolerate 3,600 RPM, so you're well within safe limits.

Be cautious about using standard washers for anything to do with clamping grinding wheels. They are often not perfectly flat, and can have projections that might encourage a grinding wheel to break. Before making any adapters, have a grinding wheel in your possession, and size the flanges according to the blotter on the wheel. A good size is about ¼" smaller diameter than the blotter. Flanges are best made with a relief, so the outer portion applies pressure to the wheel alone, not the entire face of the flange. You can also rely, safely, on the dimensions I posted for making an adapter for a grinder.

A suggestion. A recirculating pump and catch basin is a great idea. If you rely on the provided drip cup alone, it will run your cooling water to waste, and will rust your equipment in the process. It will also not provide a satisfactory amount of cooling unless you run a constant stream, which complicates the process considerably. You need more flow than the occasional drip. By using a pan under the diamond wheel, and a recirculating pump, you can run a dilute chemical additive that will prevent rust, and provide the necessary cooling required for serious grinding. You can use a small inexpensive fountain pump for circulation.

If your grinder has both left and right hand threads on the motor shaft, no problem. If both ends are threaded right hand, use the left side of the grinder (as you face it) for the diamond wheel. That way you won't be running in a direction that has the potential to undo the nut on the AO grinding wheel when it's in use. I made my grinder in the opposite way, and while it's never been a problem, I would do it as I recommend were I to do it over.

Harold

It's difficult to understand exactly how the grinder is set up by the exploded view, but it's obvious that there are adapters in place. You should be able to remove the adapter for mounting a plate mounted wheel and replace it with a machined adapter that will accommodate 1¼" bore grinding wheels. You may have to get creative, but it certainly is possible.There's nothing wrong with your plan (except as outlined below). The grinder is limited, according to published specs, to 3,400 RPM. The average 7" wheel will tolerate 3,600 RPM, so you're well within safe limits.Be cautious about using standard washers for anything to do with clamping grinding wheels. They are often not perfectly flat, and can have projections that might encourage a grinding wheel to break. Before making any adapters, have a grinding wheel in your possession, and size the flanges according to the blotter on the wheel. A good size is about ¼" smaller diameter than the blotter. Flanges are best made with a relief, so the outer portion applies pressure to the wheel alone, not the entire face of the flange. You can also rely, safely, on the dimensions I posted for making an adapter for a grinder.A suggestion. A recirculating pump and catch basin is a great idea. If you rely on the provided drip cup alone, it will run your cooling water to waste, and will rust your equipment in the process. It will also not provide a satisfactory amount of cooling unless you run a constant stream, which complicates the process considerably. You need more flow than the occasional drip. By using a pan under the diamond wheel, and a recirculating pump, you can run a dilute chemical additive that will prevent rust, and provide the necessary cooling required for serious grinding. You can use a small inexpensive fountain pump for circulation.If your grinder has both left and right hand threads on the motor shaft, no problem. If both ends are threaded right hand, use the left side of the grinder (as you face it) for the diamond wheel. That way you won't be running in a direction that has the potential to undo the nut on the AO grinding wheel when it's in use. I made my grinder in the opposite way, and while it's never been a problem, I would do it as I recommend were I to do it over.Harold

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