Questions You Should Know about Best On Grid Solar System

A lot of people ultimately decide to go solar because the math works out over the long term. But to figure that out, you must first determine what your system should cost up front.

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The answer to that question: It's complicated, and it depends.

When Larry Gawel and his wife installed solar at their Lincoln, Nebraska, home in , the system cost about $18,000. The system has since provided for almost all their electrical needs, including heating and cooling. Recently their retirement planner asked for a summary of their utility bills and assumed that the figure they gave him was per month. 'I told him no, that's an entire year,' Gawel said.

At the other end of the range is the Central Florida home of Erik Erickson, Wirecutter's director of platform engineering. To manage hurricane threats and routine power outages, Erik has specced out a slightly oversize solar array coupled to four backup batteries. Capable of powering the home if the grid goes down for a week or more, the system will come in at about $68,000.

The average price falls somewhere in between. The median price of a US residential solar installation was $4.20 per watt in (down from $14 in ), and such a system produced 7.2 kilowatts, according to a report from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (PDF). (That number skews low because California installs the most residential systems, but they're relatively small; other states average above 8 kilowatts.) That works out to a total cost of about $30,240.

EnergySage, a 'solar matchmaker' whose expertise we've highlighted before, has a detailed chart of state-by-state average costs that may give you a rough idea of what to expect for your home. Just be aware that the results shown there are limited to an average system size installed in that state, which may not match your own needs, and the figures are lower by about 25% than the numbers in the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory report. In part, this is because EnergySage factors in savings that you can get only if you use EnergySage to connect with contractors in your area.

The federal government will subsidize 30% of the cost of your solar project.

The Inflation Reduction Act of made several important changes to how federal solar tax credits work. For one, it extended the credit for years, until ; it also raised the rebate to 30% of the total cost of installation until , after which it tails off to 26% and 22% the next two years.

There's no cap to the cost, either'whether you pay $10,000 or $100,000 for your solar project, you get the full value of the credit.

In a sense, that may be all that you as a homeowner need to know. You have a long window in which to decide whether to go solar, where you can be confident of writing off 30% of the total cost. Your up-front costs will be reduced by almost a third, and you'll recoup your investment that much faster.

Significantly, you can spread the credit across as many as the next five years of tax returns. This option is designed to maximize the credit's benefits, since not every household will owe 30% of their project cost in taxes in the year of installation.

The Inflation Reduction Act also improves certainty and long-term planning in the solar industry itself, said Joe Lipari, vice president of projects at Brooklyn SolarWorks. 'We always joke and call it the 'solar coaster' because so much of it is really influenced by political whims,' he said. 'What the IRA did was provide certainty that this is an incentive that's going to be here to stay' We're so accustomed to, 'It's going to expire next year. Sign up now. Get it while you can. It's never going to get better.' It changes the mindset.'

And that should help smaller, customer-oriented local solar contractors'such as Brooklyn SolarWorks'stick around.

We strongly recommend working with such a contractor, versus a large national firm whose business model, as detailed by Alana Semuels in Time, prioritizes sales over service. (In Semuels's words, 'National solar companies essentially became finance companies that happened to sell solar.') Tellingly, the first of the '40 Questions to Ask an Installer' suggested by the nonprofit American Solar Energy Society are 'What year was your company established?' and 'Where are its offices?'

Many states, municipalities, and utilities have their own incentive programs that will further reduce your costs, often significantly. For example, Wirecutter editor-in-chief Ben Frumin got an additional 19% of his solar installation subsidized by New York programs.

DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, makes it easy to find programs in your area using just your zip code. California, Minnesota, New York, and Texas have more than 100, and most states have at least several dozen. You still have to read through the descriptions of the individual programs to find those that apply to you (some have qualifying restrictions, such as income level), but having all of them gathered in one place for research purposes is a big help.

Any contractors you speak with should also be familiar with the programs you likely qualify for'after all, it's in their own self-interest to help bring you to the decision to go solar'and if they are not, consider that a warning flag. Confirm that the contractors are authorized to submit proof-of-work statements to the utilities and agencies that handle the incentive programs, as well, since you'll need that for your claims.

Installers may offer rates that are lower than banks' too, which will lower your monthly payments, though likely not your total outlay.

'We try to make sure that we are very transparent with the customers as to what that looks like,' said J.W. Peters, co-founder of Solar Power of Oklahoma, one of the state's oldest installers. 'We have some options that are a 25-year loan at a 4.9% interest. But that loan product actually costs us more money to be able to offer to that homeowner. And so therefore, our cost estimate adjusts our baseline costs to adjust for that as well.'

You may find that it makes sense to put up some of the payment in cash. Wirecutter's Erik Erickson carefully considered his options when working out the cost for his system. Eliminating his family's monthly $415 electricity bill was a top priority, and 'basically I'm getting down to $415 a month [in finance payments] if I put $7,000 down on top,' he said, 'which is a chunk of change and was one of the biggest reasons I took a month to deliberate, because this doesn't pencil out without extra money down.'

In the long run, it almost certainly will.

The tax credit is effectively a direct price cut on the cost of going solar. But solar installations also generally pay for themselves over time, through a combination of lowering your electricity bills and a process known as net metering.

Unless you plan to install storage batteries, even after going solar you'll use power from the electrical grid at night, when your solar panels are producing nothing. And in high-demand periods'often summer or winter, when you're cooling or heating your home, respectively'you may draw some electricity from the grid during the daytime, too.

Usually, you'll still get a bill from your utility every month.

But much of the time, your system will produce more electricity than you need'weekdays when nobody is at home, for example, or shoulder months like March or April, when your area has a ton of sunlight and you're not blasting your electricity-sucking air conditioner.

That excess power will go back onto the grid for other customers to use, and your utility will give you credit for the value of that power on your next billing cycle. That's net metering, and with a well-designed system it means you'll wind up paying very little for your electricity over the course of a year.

Over time, the money you save will more than cover the cost of the system and any loan interest.

However, it's important to know how your utility calculates net metering, because that's key to figuring out how fast you'll see a return on your solar investment.

Knowing who provides your power and how the utility's net metering works will make you a shrewder judge of contractors when you're seeking bids.

Who provides the home's electricity is one of the first questions Solar Power of Oklahoma's J.W. Peters asks of prospective customers. Like most states, Peters explained, Oklahoma is served by a mix of publicly owned utilities, municipally owned utilities, and member-owned cooperatives. They use different net metering rates and credit structures'and some don't offer net metering, period.

'We need to know who they have so I can figure that into the calculations,' Peters said. 'We've seen a lot of kind [of] fly-by-night, door-to-door-salesman-type people coming in and knocking on doors in neighborhoods that know nothing about the utility structure in that area. They're selling people systems, and in some cases even installing them, under false pretenses of what that system will do for those customers.' In the worst cases, he said, people have had solar installed, only to learn that they are not allowed to connect to the grid at all'so when the sun goes down, their home doesn't have electricity.

Tom Broderick of Flagstaff, Arizona, talked to four installers when he was going solar in . 'One of them knew what he was talking about'one,' he said. 'Some of them said some really dumb things, and I didn't call them on it, because I wanted to give them the opportunity to say more dumb things and find out what they really knew and what they really didn't.'

Think like him. Understand your utility's net metering program before seeking bids, and as Broderick emphasized, 'Look at multiple installers. Get references. Check their business record with the Better Business Bureau. How long have they been in business? Are they certified?' Ideally that would mean certified by NABCEP, the North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners.

Anyone researching this topic has likely stumbled upon some free online cost estimators, such as EnergySage's tool.

Through that estimator, EnergySage calculates your potential lifetime savings from going solar based on your address and current monthly electricity bills, after which it solicits free bids from licensed and vetted solar contractors.

Another estimator, the National Renewable Energy Laboratory's PVWatts, calculates your potential solar-energy production based on your address and roof size.

There's also DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency, which lists potential sources of low-interest loans, rebates, and other incentives for going solar based on your zip code.

Such cost estimators certainly help. But the reality is that to truly get a sense of the cost and value, you have to decide what you want solar to do for you'what you value most among the many benefits it can bring'and then work within your means to get a system that meets your needs.

Absolutely.

You can do a lot of things to lower your energy bills and carbon footprint that, happily, cost much less than a solar installation.

Consider community solar. You effectively pay for panels that are installed at a solar-production facility. They supply electricity to the grid at large, and you get a credit on your energy bill, much as you would with a system you installed at your house, but the household disruption and soft costs are eliminated.

Community solar is expanding rapidly, with annual growth more than doubling nationwide every year since . 'Community solar has been a major driver of opening market access for folks, particularly people for whom residential solar isn't financially or logistically feasible,' said Gilbert Michaud, assistant professor of environmental policy at Loyola University Chicago and policy division chair of the American Solar Energy Society.

At the end of , the baseline year of the most recent National Renewable Energy Laboratory report (PDF), community solar facilities totalling more than 6 gigawatts of capacity had been installed in 43 states and Washington, DC, with a third of that capacity installed in alone.

However, the distribution of community solar is uneven, with four states'Florida, New York, Minnesota, and Massachusetts'accounting for 75% of it (in terms of wattage) and the top 10 states accounting for more than 90%. Depending on where you live, you may have to do some legwork to find a local project to invest in.

Finally, and for older homes especially, relatively inexpensive upgrades to things like insulation and weather sealing can lower utility bills substantially. We cover many of the options in detail in our guide to home weatherizing. And Michaud pointed out that they too are supported by the Inflation Reduction Act'as part of the $8.8 billion Home Energy Rebates program'and by many state and local programs as well.

When I spoke with Iain Walker of Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in , he brought up a way of thinking about green technology that stuck with me.

There are dollar savings to consider, he said, and there are carbon savings'and sometimes the two don't quite add up. A new induction stove would cost him considerably more in electricity each month than his old stove would cost him in gas, he said by way of an example. But its carbon footprint would be much lower, and that in itself is valuable to him.

Homeowner Tom Broderick told us, '[My] motivation is mainly climate change and doing something about it at my personal level,' but 'it did matter that through my retirement, my costs would be lower for electricity.'

Homeowner Larry Gawel is pleased that he's saving money and emissions at the same time: 'Both of them are important to me.'

Wirecutter's Erik Erickson plans to add an EV charger (and an EV) to his system, but 'in a few years, after this is all through, because this is the most expensive project we've ever done.'

For homeowner Tom Lee, the initial decision to go solar'in Los Angeles, back in 'was basically a dollars-and-cents matter. He was already doing a major home renovation, so it was a sensible time to get the installation done. The system was not cheap, at around $60,000, but 'this house was going to be my forever house, so I figured it's a good idea, right?' he said. 'Especially with all this money coming back to me [from rebates and utility savings].'

But as time and technology moved forward 15 years, so did his appreciation for what he'd done. 'I feel proud that I'm a solar owner,' he said.

If you want to learn more, please visit our website KINGSUN.

This article was edited by Harry Sawyers and Ben Frumin.

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With a solar energy system, you generate your own electricity at home, which means you don't need to buy as much--or possibly any--from your utility company. 

Some utilities even compensate you for any excess electricity your system produces and sends to the grid through a policy called net metering (more on this below). And, depending on where you live, you may even have access to other solar incentives such as local rebates and tax credits. Your exact savings with solar will depend on a few factors, including how much you pay for electricity, but it's usually a wise financial investment for most homeowners.

The easiest way to find out how much you pay for electricity (and how much electricity you use per month) is to take a look at your utility bill. (Review EnergySage's guide to reading your electric bill to find out exactly what to look for.) If your bill doesn't show the rate, you can divide the total amount you owe by the total kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you used to find your effective cost per kWh.

In most cases, adding solar panels increases your property value. Multiple studies have shown that homes with solar energy systems sell for more than homes without'it can add as much as $24,000 to the resale value! However, your property value will only increase if you own your solar panels, not if you're leasing them. For details, check out our guide to selling your house with solar.

If you connect your solar panel system to the grid, you might be able to benefit from net metering'one of the best solar incentives for home solar.  Your utility company essentially works like a bank account for all the energy your solar panels produce in a given month.

When the sun shines, your home first takes as much power as it needs from the solar panels. If the panels generate any excess energy, it gets sent back to the grid. In return, your utility gives you credits. When the sun isn't shining and you need grid electricity to power your home, you won't have to pay for it until those credits run out. 

Net metering policies differ from state to state'from Massachusetts to California'so do your homework beforehand.

Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity. The panels are made of solar cells, which, when hit by the sun's rays, generate direct current (DC) electricity through a process called "the photovoltaic effect." 

Most home appliances don't run on DC electricity, so devices called inverters convert it to alternating current (AC) electricity. Once converted, the electricity flows into your home, powering everything from your lights to your fridge to your cell charger. If your panels produce more electricity than you need, the excess goes to the grid (which is where net metering comes in) or a battery, if you have one installed.

It depends. Solar panels need sunlight to generate electricity. The more sunlight they get, the more power they generate. They'll produce less energy when the sky is cloudy and won't produce any energy after the sun sets. But with high electricity costs and financial incentives, solar is a smart choice even if you live in a cloudy state. For example, as of , the average solar homeowner in the State of Washington still saves more than $20,000 on electric bills over their system's 25-year lifespan.

Yes, it's possible to go off the grid with a solar energy system that includes battery storage. But truthfully, it's costly and unnecessary for most homeowners, especially those who live in more urban areas. 

The majority of homeowners who install solar panels on their property are still connected to the grid. This allows you to draw power from the grid when your system is not producing all the power you need and, if you have access to net metering, earn credits for the power you send to the grid when your panels are overproducing.

No. If your solar panel system is connected to the grid, it will shut off during a blackout to prevent emergency responders and electricity utility repair people from being injured by your panels sending power back to the grid. If you want to keep your lights on during power outages, you'll need to pair your solar panel system with a solar battery.

Solar panel maintenance costs homeowners roughly $30 per kilowatt (kW) installed per year'about $330 per year for the average 11 kW system'according to a study by the National Renewable Energy Library (NREL). But, most solar panel owners will pay much less. This $30 per kW figure includes operations beyond routine maintenance, including insurance, asset management and security, and equipment replacement costs. 

Truthfully, solar panel systems generally require little to no maintenance over their 25-to-35-year lifetime. Solar panels include durable tempered glass that can withstand most weather conditions and only require infrequent cleaning. If there's a technical or mechanical issue, most equipment manufacturers include warranties that vary from 10 to 40 years, although terms depend on the company.

Solar panels usually still generate some electricity on snowy days. If there's snow sitting on your solar panels, it will significantly reduce their production. But, since most panels are tilted at an angle, snow tends to slide right off (and as a bonus, cleans your panels in the process), meaning the accumulation rarely lasts. Snow generally isn't heavy enough to cause structural issues with your panels. Still, you might want to consider snow guards to prevent sliding snow from potentially injuring you or your family members.

The cost of installing solar panels is about $30,000 before any incentives or rebates, but most homeowners pay less. The average U.S. solar shopper needs about 11 kilowatts (kW) of home solar to cover their electricity usage. Based on thousands of quotes in the EnergySage Marketplace, you'll pay about $20,948 to install a system around that size in after federal tax credits.

Solar rebates and incentives vary depending on where you live, who your utility provider is, and other criteria unique to your situation. The most significant solar incentive is available to homeowners nationwide'it's the 30% federal investment tax credit (ITC), which allows you to deduct 30% of the cost of your solar energy system from your taxes. Some states offer additional tax credits, and certain municipalities and utilities offer other incentives, like cash rebates.

It depends on your reason for going solar. If you're interested in maximizing the financial returns of your solar energy system, buying your solar panel system is the best choice, either with cash or a loan. If you prioritize a low upfront-cost, maintenance-free way to reduce your energy bills and help the environment, you may want to consider a PPA. 

We typically don't recommend solar leases because they often lead to the lowest savings. And, with either a lease or a PPA, you won't be able to take advantage of financial incentives. But truly, it's a personal choice that depends on your specific circumstances. If you're considering a solar lease or a PPA, do your research and read the agreement carefully before signing.

The main difference between secured and unsecured solar loans is that secured solar loans require that you promise an asset, usually your home, as collateral for the money you borrow. Unsecured solar loans don't require an asset, but their interest rates are generally higher to make up for the increased risk taken on by the lender. To understand which financing option is best, you can evaluate offers for secured and unsecured loans on EnergySage.

A lot of different institutions offer solar loans, including local and national banks, specialty financing companies, manufacturers, and credit unions. To choose the best solar loan, we recommend comparing options from a few financing providers. Look for ones with low upfront fees, even if that means higher interest rates'it will lead to better long-term savings, especially if you end up paying off your loan early (which most homeowners do).

If you can afford to pay your electric bill, you can afford to go solar. There are $0-down solar financing options, including both solar loans and solar leases/PPAs, that make it easy for homeowners to start saving on their electricity bills right from the start. Some financing options require certain credit scores, but shopping around will help you find one that works for you. 

The ideal size of your solar energy system depends on your electricity usage and how much sun your roof gets, among other things. Look at your past electric bills and compare offers from licensed, pre-screened solar installers to determine the best system size for your needs. And, if you're considering future electrical upgrades, like heat pumps, an induction cooktop, or an EV charger, make sure to tell your installer so they can size your system to meet your future needs.

For maximum output, you'll want a roof that's roughly south-facing, has minimal shading, and is tilted between 15 and 40 degrees. But even if your roof doesn't have an ideal layout, solar is often still worth it. East or west-facing systems will produce plenty of power. And, you can always add racking equipment to change the angle of your solar panels relative to your roof.

It depends. Solar energy systems can last for 25 to 35 years. If you need to replace your roof within that time frame, removing and reinstalling your solar panels won't be cheap. So if you know your roof needs maintenance soon, we recommend getting it done before going solar.

Most solar installers can recommend a roofer. Some even provide their own roofing systems, which can come with a nice discount.

Solar panel systems are built to last. Typically, they'll generate electricity for 25 to 35 years. Various components will need to be replaced at different times; for example, inverters generally last between 10 and 25 years. The solar panels themselves are very durable, capable of withstanding snow, wind, and hail, and are usually protected under warranties between 10 and 40 years.

If you own your solar energy system, your house will likely sell at a premium, possibly as much as $24,000 more. But if you lease solar panels and want to sell your home, it's a different story: You'll either need to buy out your lease before you put your house on the market, or work with your leasing company to transfer it to the new homeowner. For more information, check out this guide: Five questions to ask your real estate agent before selling your home with solar panels.

There are a few things to consider when choosing a solar installer. First, confirm that they are certified, licensed, insured, have relevant experience, and can provide references. All EnergySage-approved installers are pre-screened to ensure that they meet these high-quality standards. 

Then, research what the company has to offer'do they install high-quality equipment? How do their warranties compare to others? Do they perform their installations in-house or hire contractors? Finally, it's a good idea to meet with your solar installer in person before signing an agreement to ensure you're comfortable working with them.

If you have multiple quotes from different solar installers, it can be hard to pick one. Not all solar installers use the same assumptions and metrics when providing homeowners with equipment and financing options. And the lowest quote isn't always the best value. 

We make it easy to compare quotes side-by-side so you understand the cost and benefits of each one. If you already have some quotes, upload them to EnergySage! You can compare them to quotes you receive in the Marketplace.

On a technical level, there are three main types of solar panels: monocrystalline (most efficient), polycrystalline (more budget-friendly), and thin-film (versatile, good for RVs or tiny homes). Within those three types, there are dozens of manufacturers. We rate the equipment that's quoted in our Marketplace (solar panels, inverters, and batteries) so you can easily compare it side-by-side. These are the top solar panel brands we recommend.

There are three types of inverters: string/central inverters, microinverters, and optimized inverters. Inverters convert your panels' electricity from direct current (DC) to alternating current (AC) electricity. In general, microinverters and optimized inverters are best for shady roofs but tend to cost more. If you have a pretty simple roof with minimal shading, you'll save a lot by choosing a string inverter. Here's our list of the best inverters. 

After you compare quotes and find your desired solar installer on EnergySage, your installer will conduct a site visit to assess your property. Once you accept a quote on EnergySage, your installer will file the paperwork necessary to approve your system. The solar panel system installation usually only takes a few days to complete, but the entire installation process'from site assessment to commissioning'can take anywhere from two to six months due to scheduling constraints around permitting, installation, inspections, utility interconnection, and more.

If you want detailed information about how much energy your solar panel system produces, then yes, you should ask your installer about solar monitoring system options. In many cases, solar lease agreements will include free programs to track your system's performance. You may need to pay for one separately if you own your system.

No, as long as you're connected to the grid, your solar panel system doesn't necessarily need a battery. Your excess power will flow back to the grid, and you can draw from the grid if you need more electricity than your panels generate.

If you want backup power during outages, you will need a battery. And, if you don't have access to one-to-one net metering, batteries can significantly increase your savings with solar, making them very worthwhile.

When you subscribe to a community solar project, you receive a portion of the energy generated by a large solar panel system located in your area. Unlike a home solar panel system, a community solar project isn't installed on your roof. Community solar and rooftop solar both result in net savings on your electricity bill, but each offers distinct benefits. Compare rooftop vs. community solar to see which is right for you.

There are two models of community solar: ownership-based and subscription-based. Ownership allows you to make an up-front investment to save money in the future, while subscription-based programs offer savings over a set period. When comparing community solar offers, you'll find different types of structures within these tiers'it all varies depending on where you live. Before selecting a project, consider its location and how soon it will begin delivering savings.

If you move within the same service area, you may be able to keep your share of the community solar project. If you move outside the service area, you could sell your share (if you own it), transfer your subscription to another account, or potentially pay an early cancellation fee (if you have a subscription-based model). Community solar cancellation terms vary by project and provider, so be sure to ask before you sign up.

When you purchase bill credits from your community solar provider, you get them at a 5-20% discount, depending on your initial contract. If your community solar subscription includes a 10% discount on bill credits, you'll receive $1 towards your utility bill charges for every 90 cents you pay your community solar provider, which means you pocket 10 cents of savings. 

While 10 cents doesn't seem like much, over the hundreds or thousands you spend on electric bills each year, 90 cents for every dollar leads to decent savings. If you currently spend $200 every month on electricity, you could save $20 every bill, or $240 every year with community solar.

By signing up for a community solar project, you'll receive virtual net metering credits on your electric bill. Each credit is equal to one kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity. Let's say, for example, you use 1,000 kWh at home in one month, and your community solar share produces 800 kWh. The 800 kWh in credits from your share are applied to your electric bill, so your utility bills you only for the remaining 200 kWh. You pay your community solar provider directly for the cost of your share or subscription.

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