There are many methods of stripping paint from wood surfaces, and each has it&#;s own set of issues. When choosing a paint stripping method, it&#;s important to be mindful of the problems that may occur.

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Here is a summary of various stripping methods and what you need to look out for when you choose a method to strip paint.

• Caustic or sodium hydroxide liquid chemicals &#; These strippers can work in 10 minutes or up to several hours, depending on the chemical and thickness of the paint. They work best on carved and detailed surfaces. However, they are drippy and suitable only for horizontal surfaces. For the worker, skin and inhalation protection are critical. Moisture and residue are the main downsides for the wood itself. After the paint and stripper have separated from the wood and are scraped off, liquid neutralizer must be applied. At times, the chemicals and moisture are drawn deep into the wood. When this happens, the remaining salts seep out after the new paint has dried and break down the new paint layers. In addition, the process can discolor the wood despite rinsing and several hours of drying.

• Solvents &#; Until this decade, 75% of paint stripping was done using the most common of these strippers &#; methylene chloride. The thicker gel works within minutes and sticks well on vertical surfaces. However, proper ventilation is critical; the fumes can be fatal and carcinogenic. The set up, waste containment, clean up, and drying are time-consuming.
• &#;Green&#; strippers &#; With the focus on our environment, these strippers are rising in popularity, especially with DIYers. They are much more user and environmentally friendly. Their downside is that several applications may be needed to thoroughly remove all the layers of paint. As with other chemical strippers, the liquid must be thick enough to prevent dripping on vertical surfaces. As with all chemical strippers, the set up, waste containment, clean up and drying are time-consuming.
• Steam &#; Using hand-held steamers is a relatively new method for paint removal. Waste is easier to contain, but this process is very slow. Using steam on thick painted or varnished wood raises the grain on the wood. The old &#;dead, gray wood&#; feathers up. To remove this loose wood, deeper scraping or sanding is needed; more wood is damaged and removed. Drying time is several days.
• Power washing &#; One of the fastest paint removal methods is using a stream of pressurized water. Unless done by a skilled operator, this method can easily mar the soaked wood. Power washing pushes water into the wood and significantly extends the drying time. Incomplete drying of the wood is the most common reason for paint failure. Additionally, it can be difficult to contain the water and possibly toxic lead paint chips.
• Hand or electric sanders and wood-shaving equipment &#; Using these tools is definitely faster and more time-efficient than using chemicals. However, quality results require experienced operators. The wood surface can be unevenly stripped and irreparably damaged. Complete containment of the airborne dust and shavings is required in most states and can be costly. Without proper lead-safe work practices, workers, building occupants, and the surrounding environment are at high risk of contamination and lead poisoning.
• Traditional heat guns and open torches &#; Most of these hand-held heat devices operate at ° The area heated with each application is small at 3&#;-5&#;. At this high temperature, wood is easily scorched and even burned. Burn marks must be sanded. Pre- paint likely has lead in it, which will be gassed off at this high temperature. Workers must wear expensive, organic vapor masks. The risk of fire is high with these types of heat. Blowing hot air or torches easily ignite dust, spider webs, bird nests and other small, dry particles. The materials behind the wood are also heated and can catch fire many hours after the stripping is done.

Our recommended method of stripping paint is the Speedheater&#; Infrared (IR) Paint Remover. The Speedheater&#; system is best in that it contains none of the risks associated with the methods listed above. The mid-length infrared rays safely and quickly heat paint to 300°F-600°F in 20-60 seconds. At this low temperature, lead fumes are not released. The soft paint scrapings generate minimal dust and are easily contained. All the layers of thick paint or varnish are removed down to the bare wood in a few strokes with sharp, pull-type scrapers. The resulting wood surface is smooth, requires no sanding, washing, or drying time and is immediately ready for priming and painting.

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Roll Forming Post-Cut or Pre-Cut Advantages and Disadvantages

When roll forming producers are making serious decisions about new roll form products, it is critical to consider the best mill configuration to produce the desired product.  The options involve when to make the cut-off, choosing between roll forming pre-cut material or post-cutting the material.  With pre-cut material, the strip is cut before entering the roll forming mill, whereas with post-cut material, the strip is cut after the product is shaped through the roll forming mill.  There are advantages and disadvantages to each choice.  The following points should be helpful in choosing the best option for your roll forming application:

Advantages of a post-cut roll form line:

• Increased production and less downtime, since material is fed continuously through the roll former
• Typically, fewer forming stations are required, since there is no need for the material to self-thread
• After a new coil is threaded, the leading edge of the profile does not get deformed
• Tooling tends to wear longer between reconditioning, yielding more linear footage
• End flare, twist, camber and bow defects are easier to control
• Minor mill adjustments are possible with continuously fed material under load in the roll former
• Part lengths are not limited by mill specs (i.e. horizontal centers); if floor space is an issue, the parts can be run directly to the outside of the building

Disadvantages of a post-cut roll form line:

• Edge condition from the cut-off die can leave a slight burr and/or distortion with hemmed parts or non-supported areas of a cross-section
• More cut-off die inserts are required, when there are many sizes or combinations for a given product
• Sometimes it is better to form a pre-cut strip, when there is a severely notched feature in the product
• When pre-notching is needed, the mill system requires additional capital to add the cut-off press to the system

Advantages of a pre-cut roll form line:

• Generally, it is less expensive to utilize an existing electronic feed system already used in the pre-shear, as opposed to adding a second post-cut press at the end of the mill
• Hand feeding strips is more economical for low-volume production
• Some notch configurations make it easier to run pre-cut strips
• Combination roll tooling that forms multiple strip widths does not require shear die changeover
• Parts with severe notches or complex cross-sections may not cut well after roll forming

Disadvantages of a pre-cut roll form line:

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• Strips must self-thread without damage to the lead edges, normally requiring additional forming stations
• Lead and trail ends of pre-cut strips are not supported against adjacent roll passes, resulting in straightening issues
• Auxiliary guides may be required to control the material as it transitions from pass to pass
• Tooling generally experiences more abuse and wear from lead-in edge of profile
• End flare condition on exit and lead-in edge can be more prominent on pre-cut parts
• Twist, end flare, and bow are harder to minimize, when forming pre-cut parts &#; especially asymmetrical profiles
• Material can jam or double up in production and cause damage to the roll former and tooling
• Producing shorter parts has limitations &#; the profile should be engaged in three forming stations at all times
• If floor space is a concern, longer parts require a material conveyor between the pre-notch press and the roll former, equal to or greater than the longest part