Working with titanium sheet

Hello Alan, what an impressive design! It reflects ultimate simplicity. Do the notches on the pot support secure the ends of the sheet together?

For additional details, feel free to check out KLS.

Over the years, I've utilized various brands of sheet metal punches effectively on .005" titanium and .003" stainless steel, as well as aluminum of comparable thickness. I particularly favor Eastwood tools and highly endorse their $50 punch. The $40 Nieko is commendable as well. However, I was disappointed with the performance of a $130 Roper Whitney; it was once the 'gold standard' for this type of punch. The quality was incredibly low. It was essentially like attempting to paint over metal surfaces that should glide smoothly but became obstructed with paint. Conversely, there are generic non-branded versions of seemingly identical tools available for less, but Eastwood's quality control and customer support are simply unmatched in the industry.

Achieving clean outcomes when punching aluminum is straightforward. Holes of 3/32", 1/8", and 5/32" in titanium and stainless steel generally produce acceptable results. Nevertheless, when it comes to hole diameters of 3/16" and larger in such thin materials, extra effort is required with titanium and stainless steel. The key is to tighten the die securely against the anvil to prevent any movement or deformation of the metal during the punching process. Here's how:

Incorrect method:

Performing this task is labor-intensive and time-consuming, as each hole necessitates four steps: (1) position the punch on the material, (2) tighten the die, (3) execute the punch, and (4) loosen the die.

This process is essential to achieve the desired results:

If you're interested, contact us to discuss your needs regarding titanium sheet for sale. Our knowledgeable sales team is ready to assist you in determining the best options for your requirements.

For holes larger than 9/32", as seen in the heat shield illustration below, I start by punching a 1/4" or 9/32" hole, then enlarge it using a Dremel tool. Using grinding stones to increase the hole size produces some impressive white sparks.

When testing your new windscreen, it is wise to frequently check the temperature at the top of your fuel canister while operating the stove. I've made similar windscreens that come down close to the valve handle and was startled at how much heat was reflected from the burner and pot bottom. It became significant enough that I started placing a heat shield atop the tank before attaching the stove:

A random thought: omitting the heat shield in chilly conditions might reduce the necessity for a Moulder strip.

I completely understand! Cutting titanium can be smoky, creates sparks everywhere, and poses some risks.

A good metal cutting bandsaw is my next significant investment.


Given that you have a bandsaw, I'd suggest utilizing that; however, you can also find friction blades at any hardware store. They fit a standard “skil saw” or circular saw. While I initially had the saw for slicing 2x4s and plywood, it suffices in a pinch. I believe they are similar to the blades used on angle grinders... Always ensure not to flex the blade or operate without full-body protection, as they can explode at high speeds. Oh man, I really need a bandsaw, haha.

Just remember to cut in an impeccably clean environment devoid of other metals since titanium is highly flammable. Once, a spark ignited a 'wire' from drilling steel, and that tiny shred of metal nearly set my workbench ablaze; titanium burns very hot.