The Best Way To Dissolve Praziquantel & Treat Flukes
The Best Way To Dissolve Praziquantel & Treat Flukes
Praziquantel must be dissolved in the water to kill flukes and tapeworms. However, praziquantel is notoriously hard to dissolve in water, making it difficult to effectively treat the fish. If you have used praziquantel before, you know what I mean.
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While there are liquid forms of Praziquantel medication, I find that the prazi often precipitates out of solution, and you are usually left with a lot of gooey prazi at the bottom of the container that still needs to be dissolved in the pond water.
My Attempts at Dissolving Praziquantel
Over the years, I tried various methods to dissolve praziquantel, and each method I found, seemed to work better than the last, but I wasnt satisfied with any of them. With most of these methods, the prazi would only partially dissolve, leaving a lot of powder and clumps of prazi just floating on the surface of the water.
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- When I first started using praziquantel, I would mix the it with very hot water in a water bottle and shake the bejesus out of it. Some of it dissolved, but no matter how hard, or how long I shook it for, most of the prazi wouldt dissolve. I really wasnt happy with the results.
- Next, I mixed it with Microbe Lift Broad Spectrum Disease Treatment (Proform C), which is a formalin / malachite green based medication. Again, I placed it in a bottle and shook it vigorously. The results were better, but not as good as I would have liked. When I applied it to the water, there was still a significant amount of undissolved prazi floating on the surface. However, this combination does provide a nice 1-2 punch if you think there may be more than just fluke outbreak.
- Still wanting better results, I kept researching, until I came across using vodka (yes, Vodka!)to dissolve it. So, naturally I tried this, and I must say it worked quite well. the prazi dissolved quite well, but I thought it was a terrible waste of good vodka. There had to be a better way.
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Crashjack said:Click to expand...
Just to update, I just got done last night with a 12-day feeding regimen using a GC/Focus Easy Masstick combo with good results. The fish that was in question was a Pintail fairy wrasse, which I added to my display about a month before treatment. The fish was received from one of this site's trusted quarantined fish businesses, and the only issues were behavioral... the fish didn't care much about feeding, it's coloration faded initially (did come back some prior to treatment), it mainly hovered in one of two spots near the surface, and it would remain hidden for extended periods of time. The fish would also show some improvement, then regress, then show improvement again, then regress again. I had seen very similar symptoms with two other fish, each on a different occasion, both of which likely had intestinal parasites as they also had the traditional "white stringy poop", and both were cured by a feeding regimen of GC/Focus laced food. Before shipping, the business owner told me that he had recently caught a fish bullying this fish, causing tail fin damage and prompting him to separate the fish (he also gave me a nice discount for the damaged tail). Therefore, a bacterial infection that either started during or was exacerbated by shipping, is also a possibility. Note: I don't blame the business owner for the fish's illness. He was very upfront about the tail injury, and the previous two fish I had with intestinal parasites were two I quarantined. I would much rather deal with a problem that is somewhat benign that I can also treat in the display, than one that threatens the health of all of my fish that I can't treat in the display.
Anyway, the fish has responded well to treatment as it now feeds aggressively, has good coloration, the tail is about healed (I didn't really see any improvement in the tail until treatment), and though it still spends a lot of time in one general area of the tank and near the surface, it moves around and does venture out. The other positive is that I see no signs of problems with my bta or any other corals. One thing I will add is that I might recommend using the regular Masstick instead of the "Easy Masstick" because mixing would be a whole lot easier. Even with the addition of Selcon, Garlic Guard, and Hikari pellets (small), I easily spent 45 minutes just stirring the stuff, and that was after spending quite a while tearing it into smaller chunks.
Just to update, I just got done last night with a 12-day feeding regimen using a GC/Focus Easy Masstick combo with good results. The fish that was in question was a Pintail fairy wrasse, which I added to my display about a month before treatment. The fish was received from one of this site's trusted quarantined fish businesses, and the only issues were behavioral... the fish didn't care much about feeding, it's coloration faded initially (did come back some prior to treatment), it mainly hovered in one of two spots near the surface, and it would remain hidden for extended periods of time. The fish would also show some improvement, then regress, then show improvement again, then regress again. I had seen very similar symptoms with two other fish, each on a different occasion, both of which likely had intestinal parasites as they also had the traditional "white stringy poop", and both were cured by a feeding regimen of GC/Focus laced food. Before shipping, the business owner told me that he had recently caught a fish bullying this fish, causing tail fin damage and prompting him to separate the fish (he also gave me a nice discount for the damaged tail). Therefore, a bacterial infection that either started during or was exacerbated by shipping, is also a possibility.I don't blame the business owner for the fish's illness. He was very upfront about the tail injury, and the previous two fish I had with intestinal parasites were two I quarantined. I would much rather deal with a problem that is somewhat benign that I can also treat in the display, than one that threatens the health of all of my fish that I can't treat in the display.Anyway, the fish has responded well to treatment as it now feeds aggressively, has good coloration, the tail is about healed (I didn't really see any improvement in the tail until treatment), and though it still spends a lot of time in one general area of the tank and near the surface, it moves around and does venture out. The other positive is that I see no signs of problems with my bta or any other corals. One thing I will add is that I might recommend using the regular Masstick instead of the "Easy Masstick" because mixing would be a whole lot easier. Even with the addition of Selcon, Garlic Guard, and Hikari pellets (small), I easily spent 45 minutes just stirring the stuff, and that was after spending quite a while tearing it into smaller chunks.
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